Buying a Used Paint Booth: What to Check

Checking Physical Condition

If possible, see the booth assembled and running before it comes down. Look at panels for corrosion, dents and bent flanges, paying close attention to panel bottoms and seams. Check doors for sag, latch function and gasket condition. Run the fans and listen for bearing noise or vibration. Look at the heater: does it fire cleanly, hold temperature and have a readable nameplate? Inspect controls for obsolete components, missing interlocks or signs of field modifications. If the booth is already disassembled, inspect panels and components on pallets, and count everything against whatever list or drawing exists.

• Panel corrosion, dents and straightness
• Door alignment, hardware and seals
• Fan bearings, wheels and motors
• Heater condition and burner operation
• Control panel age, components and interlocks

Drawings, Nameplates and Missing Parts

Documentation is often the first thing lost when a booth changes hands. Without assembly drawings, putting the booth back together takes longer and mistakes are more likely. Without nameplates and listing labels on the booth, heater and controls, inspectors and insurers may question whether the equipment is acceptable. Ask the seller for manuals, drawings, wiring diagrams and any service records. Check for missing pieces: filter frames, door hardware, light fixtures, plenum parts, duct transitions and control components are commonly left behind or damaged in removal. Each missing part adds cost and may require custom fabrication if the original maker no longer supports the model.

Fit to Your Building and Utilities

A booth that worked well in someone else's building may not fit yours. Compare its overall dimensions, including plenums and the make-up air unit, to your floor space and clear height. Check whether its airflow style matches your floor: a downdraft booth needs a pit or raised floor. Look at its electrical requirements, including voltage and phase, against your service. Compare heater fuel and capacity to your gas supply and climate. A booth built for a warm region may need a larger heater in a cold one. Mismatches can often be solved, but each one adds cost that belongs in your comparison. Ask, too, whether the booth was built for the same type of coating you use, since a booth set up for waterborne or powder work may differ from one built for solvent-borne paint.

The Hidden Costs of Moving Used Equipment

The listing price rarely includes everything needed to put the booth into service. Disassembly at the seller's site, transport and crating may be your responsibility. Reinstallation includes new exhaust duct, roof or wall penetrations, electrical and gas connections, and a new or modified fire suppression system. Permits and inspections apply as they would for a new booth. Replacement filters, seals, light glass and missing parts add up. Older controls may need upgrading to satisfy current requirements. Adding these together gives a true installed cost that can be compared against a new booth with a warranty and current documentation.

• Disassembly, crating and freight
• New duct, stack and penetrations
• Electrical, gas and compressed air connections
• Fire suppression design and installation
• Permits, inspections and code upgrades
• Missing parts, seals, filters and lighting

Questions to Ask Before You Commit

A short list of questions can save a great deal of trouble. Why is the booth being sold? What coatings were sprayed in it, and how heavily was it used? Was it maintained, and are there records? Will the seller allow an inspection while it is still assembled and running? Who handles disassembly, and will parts be labeled? Are drawings, manuals and nameplates included? Having an experienced installer look at the booth, or at least at photos and documentation, before you buy can reveal issues that are not obvious to someone who has not reassembled booths before.